BATTERY BOXES

I was initially hoping to distribute the cells front/rear to establish an overall 50/50 weight distribution.  However, due to space constraints, I'm limited to 43 front : 43 rear.  With the controller placement up front, the overall "added" weight is almost a 50/50 split.  I don't know what the existing chassis split currently is without the ICE components.  So my ending weights will be whatever they work out to be.

Batter placement plan:

Center of Gravity (green dot) of added boxes, along with the controller, motor, and adapter plate:

Front box view and section view showing the bottom channels which will be cut with a router.  Self-regulating heat cable will be placed in the channels and secured with high-temp silicone.

Box parts cut, bent, and cleaned after plasma cutting:

I used a "flapper" style grinding disc on the aluminum.  Regular grinding discs plug immediately and are rendered useless:

Tacking the frame and sides together:

Rear box:

Test fit of the rear box --- just barely slides in between the sub-frame rails!

Self regulating heat cable installation:

Junction box for heat cable entry:

Covered with rubber mat and beginning insulation install:

PVC conduit painted orange to designate HV wiring (follows exhaust pipe path):

Massive crimper for 4/0 and 2/0 HV cables:

Rear cabling crimped and sealed (dual-wall heat shrink) and ready for install.  Note the additional 4 batteries on the RH side.  These were originally planned to sit at an angle over the rear diff (see CAD pic above).  However, due to the body curves and clearance problems, I was not able to fit the box in as originally designed.  This is plan B - the cells will be covered with a formed polycarbonate sheet.  I used the available space to mount the junction boxes and Blue Sea disconnect switch.  The boxes will contain the rear pack fuse and EV Display sensor board.  In addition, the charger negative lead will be connected inside the EV Display box to capture energy transfer during recharging.

Front cabling crimped and ready for box install and cell wiring.  I need to finish tidying the wiring and connecting the vacuum lines (for power brakes) before installing the front box - as it covers everything under the hood.  I designed the front box to be removable even after the cells are installed.  However, its easier at this point to finish the underlying details.  The aluminum cross arms will support the front box. They are bolted into the frame using heavy duty rivet nuts.  The driver's side is bolted rigid.  The passenger side incorporates a slip-joint to compensate for the thermal expansion difference between the aluminum and steel.  I decided to include this feature since the braces are fully constrained between the rails.  The rear braces hang below the frame rails so this feature was not necessary there.

Motor wires attached to the controller:

To be continued...

CONTROLLER MOUNT AND INSTALLATION

The factory turbo intercooler was positioned ahead of the front passenger tire.  Since all the ICE components were removed, this presented a perfect spot for the Soliton1.

  I fabricated a frame for the controller that could pick up some factory mount points

I will add some shrouds/splash guards to protect this area from water/snow/salt/etc.  Another view from inside the engine bay.

I modified the front bumper to hold the auxiliary radiator for the controller cooling loop.  The billet grill is from a '99 Ford Explorer.  It fit quite nicely into the factory hole and somewhat resembles a large aftermarket front mount intercooler.  I think it gives the front end a mean look.

I never did like the 2ga front bumpers so I acquired this new one from a local parts supplier.  I also had to change the headlights due to a different perimeter profile.  I went with an aftermarket set of projectors with CCFL halos.

Another view of the controller from the front:

And from inside the front passenger wheel well.:

SPECIFICATIONS

Electric Eagle Talon ICE vs EV Specifications

The turbocharged 4 cylinder was fun to drive.  The electric should easily exceed that!  Below is a comparison of the performance data.

Specification	Gas	Electric
Weight (lb)	3,119	3,300
Torque (ft-lb)	214 @ 3000 RPM	250 @ 0-5000 RPM
Power (hp)	210 @ 6000 RPM	238 @ 5000 RPM
Fuel Consumption Estimated (MPG : Wh/mi)	19/25 cty/hwy	300
Fuel Consumption Measured (MPG : Wh/mi)	21 Avg	*
Fuel Capacity (Gal : kWh)	15.6	27.5
Theoretical Range (mi to empty : mi to 80% DOD)	328	73
0-60 Time (Published : Estimated)	6.9	4.7
1/4 Mile Time (Published : Estimated)	15	13.7
Battery Voltage (LiFePo4, 86 Cells)	-	275
Motor (Forced Air Cooling)	-	11" DC Series Wound
Controller (Liquid Cooled, Fully Programmable)	-	Evnetics Soliton1

* yet to be determined.

DSM Strut Tower Rust Repair

Well a typical problem with 2g DSM's is the dreaded strut tower rust.  Due to a design oversight, the sheet metal will rust from under the fender into the engine bay.  By the time its noticed under the hood, its usually too late.

Originally it looked like some bubbling paint:

And on further poking, prodding, and cutting....turned into this:

Prepped for surgery:

Cleaned up and box section cut out to be repaired first:

New piece cut and drilled for plug welds to internal baffle:

Welded and ground flush before top layer installation:

Top layer trimmed to fit and formed in a vice to match original angles:

View from inside the fenderwell.  Note some of the weld burnt through the original sheet metal.  The original metal was quite thin and I had some difficulty welding it.  It would probably be easier/better with a smaller 120V Mig instead of the larger 240V model I'm using.  I will be cleaning off all the seam sealer and installing new sealer.  I'll probably spray on some rubberized undercoating as well.

Close to finished, just some grinding to do:

Touching up some pits before priming and filling/painting:

It doesn't look like much, but this has been a 5-hour ordeal.  Very time consuming to clean up the rust and work back to good metal.  Then even more work to cut the new pieces and fit everything back to factory shape - or "close" to factory shape!



**UPDATE** 29 Sept 2013

Finished and painted the RH side.  The inner fender still needs new seam sealer and some rubberized undercoating.

Next up is the driver's side - which is even worse!!!

Motor Coupler and INSTALLATION

FINALLY, after many months of life responsibilities, I have been able to get back to the project!  My previous installation was only temporary to test-fit the major components and aid in fabricating some new motor mounts.

I had previous concerns regarding the reactive torque and the small bolts on the Kostov motor end caps.  Other installations I viewed used a band around the stator housing which was then welded and attached to motor mounts or frame mounts or something rigid.  My current adapter design holds the end cap really well, but does not have extra support for the reactive torque in the housing.

The non-turbo version of the 2g Eagle Talons (and Mitsubishi Eclipses) actually had the motor/transmission mirrored in the engine bay.  So I was able to find a new brace and corresponding motor mount at a wrecker.  Item 32158 below.

I needed to modify the support plate so the new brace fit:

Tacked to brace for welding:

Installed to the right of the factory AWD brace:

Drilling and tapping some mount blocks:

Then test-fit with the new brace welded/bolted in place.

Next was the motor coupler and steady bearing.

Installed on the motor and in the adapter plate.  This exactly matches the factory ICE flywheel and mount flange arrangement.  The lower left alignment pin matches the transmission.  Another is positioned on the lower right - but it ended up staying stuck in the transmission.

Installation of the new aluminum flywheel (with removed starter ring).

A nice surprise upon teardown was a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch - a nice upgrade over OEM with "reportedly" 50% more torque capacity.  Just fine to handle the instantaneous electric output.

Installed with the centering tool and ready for mating to the transmission.

I had to assemble the transmission/transfer case and motor to position the intermediate drive shaft and steady bearing:

A difficult process with one person.  I had to align the transfer case splines, clutch splines, and transmission locator pins all simultaneously.  It took some patience....and some choice verbage.....but persistence prevailed!!!

I was then able to position the intermediate shaft, design, and weld the carrier bearing supports.  This was done by spinning the assembly while adjusting the carrier position to ensure smooth operation of the intermediate shaft.

Finally, the drive system is ready for installation.

Not as pretty as the Rebirth MR2 Mount with Idler Bearing, but I think it will do just fine.

So up and at it for one last (hopefully) installation.

In its final resting place.

Current status is drivetrain assembled, transmission and transfer case filled, and wheels spinning on electric power!!!!  Can't drive yet, but close.  I have some DSM shock tower rust to take care of before re-assembling the front body.